Malt, then and now.

In the 1800s the owners of Torvet 19 turned part of the house into a brandy distillery: grain in, spirit out, and the spent mash fed to the cattle in the courtyard. Køge was thirsty — in 1869 a town of just over 3,100 people made 431,000 pots of brandy. The courtyard is now CF’s Gård, and the name of the lunch restaurant in it remembers the grain.

The plates are classic Danish smørrebrød with a modern touch — generous, high, made from the bottom up, on rye baked in the kitchen. The snaps are the house’s own, from family recipes; the beer comes from the brewery at Køge harbour, the wine from Kjær & Sommerfeldt. The faces on the house’s own page are Betina and Christian Krüger Dannevang. Order smørrebrød to take away three days ahead.