The flødeboller grow eyes in October.

Lagkagehuset is the chain that taught Denmark to queue for bread. Ole Kristoffersen and Jane Borup opened the first bakery in 1991 on the ground floor of a 1930 block on Christianshavns Torv in Copenhagen whose cream and white storeys look like a layer cake — hence the name; Lone and Steen Skallebæk ran a bakery in Haderslev with the same idea, and in 2008 the two became one. Today it is Ole & Steen in London and New York and Lagkagehuset all over Denmark, three thousand colleagues in three countries. Køge’s is on Rådhusstræde, a few steps from Torvet: bread, pastries and coffee from half past six on weekdays, seven at the weekend, and a webshop that lets you order the night before and collect at the counter.

In October the counter turns. Seven Halloween cakes, thirty kroner each: a pumpkin flødebolle in orange coconut with a caramel centre; a bat — a chocolate muffin with wings and eyes of chocolate; a mummy træstamme of rum truffle and raspberry “blood” under white chocolate; a monster flødebolle in purple coconut over blackcurrant foam; a witch muffin — carrot cake under orange cream with a marzipan hat; a ghost muffin with blueberries, purple cream and a meringue ghost; and the ghost flødebolle itself, a classic on a marzipan base under white chocolate, with eyes and a mouth of dark chocolate. The seven are printed above as a specimen sheet, each as a stipple engraving, lime on ultramarine.